Melancholy is the best word to describe the way I often feel in December...especially during the holidays. This year has found me even more reflective and, possibly, remorseful for things I either have or haven't done. On a positive note, I've managed to learn how to surf, and even discovered that I love it. I've also kept a promise to myself to keep writing on this blog. It's been quite cathartic for me actually. I'm not sure who, if anyone, actually reads it, but it doesn't matter. I enjoy writing it. I've made new and wonderful friends this year, including my surfing guru Brian, world-class surfer and lady Ashley, my surfing instructors Melissa and Maite and several other surfers from all over the world. Unfortunately, I've also met people who have disappointed me, who have pretended to be nice and kind, but aren't who they have been in my mind. I have a tendency to create lives for people I meet and to make those lives fit into the people I want them to be. And, when that doesn't happen, I am very disappointed. Perhaps, they never really were the people I needed them to be so the fault is not theirs, but rather mine. Nevertheless, the pain one feels when that happens is very real. I'm blabbing on and on about something that has nothing to do with surfing, and this is a blog about surfing, so perhaps I should at least try to make a comparison to a wave. Sometimes, paddling out can be difficult, but then I think that if it's that rough to get out, the payoff will be good. But, that's not always the case. I'll paddle out past the pier and then I get in position to wait for my wave. I look over my shoulder and wait, until what seems to be the perfect wave heads my way. But, because I'm such a beginner, what may seem to be the perfect wave might actually close out quickly tossing me off my board. It wasn't the wave I thought it would be or needed it to be. Of course, there are times that it turns out to be the perfect wave and I get a great ride. So, I never know really until it's on me. Don't get me wrong, sometimes it's crystal clear that the waves are good. They are what they seem to be. It's just those other "uncertain" times that can be disillusioning. Here's hoping that I get a little better at telling the difference between the good and the bad in both waves and "friends."
SUNDAY SURF UPDATE: While things looked quite flat earlier this morning, by mid-morning the waves were returning. So I loaded up my Daisy and took her for a twirl. Although the sets were few and far between, good waves were abundant for the patient surfer. Many of the local surfers were willing to wait for the right wave, so I definitely had a lot of company. We all had on our 5-4 wetsuits and booties 'cause the water was quite chilly. It's amazing though how quickly I warm up when I get in the water! It was definitely worth it.
