Post-Nica surfing

Well, I've had the opportunity to go surfing at least four or five times since returning from Nicaragua, including a couple of my Friday afternoons, a Monday evening or two and Sunday mornings. Now that I see it written out, it's possible I've surfed six or seven times. I've had good days and bad days. On one of the evenings, a cool front had just passed so the wave were a little bigger than usual. Unfortunately, the front was more WNW rather than just a norther, so the waves were closing out fast. However, that evening, I had the ride of my life. It was short, but oh-so sweet! I was near the end of the jetty and, when I saw the wave, I started to paddle. I popped up at just the right moment, which means I had a free fall. At least, that's what it feels like. I've only had it happen a couple of times, but it's those few seconds when you catch a wave and you are right at the peak and when you pop up, the board drops down the wave. It's amazing! I was able to turn it, but the ride was shortlived; probably only a couple of seconds. However, it was such an amazing feeling and it made me realize why I love to surf. I can only imagine how fun it would be to catch the waves like that every time.

Yesterday, I made it down to find that two of my friends (friends that went to Nica with me) were taking a lesson from Brian. How exciting to see them out again! They really seemed to have fun. The water was unusually choppy. I managed to take the rip out when I first got there, and even caught one on the outside. The rest of the afternoon, though, I fought the current and was even unable to take the rip out. A lot of surfers were out because of the Good Friday holiday, but not many of them were able to catch waves. I even witnessed one man struggling to get out in the rip like me. Pshewww! I felt a little better knowing that I wasn't the only one having a hard time. I practiced in the whitewater some, but mostly just got beat up by the waves and current. I thought it was wonderful that I got to see Cyndi and Michele, though, and I look forward to surfing with them in the future.