Surfing Can Make Things Better

I had a rough news this week. Bad news on top of bad news came all in one day actually. I received a call about the death of a family member and a text about the results of a bad blood test from someone even more dear. The text came because my dear mother didn't have the emotional strength to make a call. She asked that I wait to call her, but I went to her instead. Both of these emotional events reminded me how precious time is, and how I need to worry less and live more. I can't change things simply by worrying. But, I can be a better person if I'm happy.

Since I had to leave for a funeral in another state early Friday morning, I was not in town for my usual surfing session. However, I heard that it was too cold to enjoy surfing, and that the waves were not worth the misery of being wet AND cold. Many were out though because of spring break. In the southeast Texas area, almost all schools, colleges and universities had last week off. It was spring break at the university where I work; however, as a staff member, I had to work. I took time off on Friday for the funeral and stayed in Louisiana until late Saturday. I had originally been registered for a half marathon on Saturday. The run was one of those rare events that is held on Saturday AND Sunday. I decided when I returned home to see if the race director would let me transfer the Saturday registration to Sunday. And I'm glad I did. They allowed me to transfer, and I ran. It wasn't my best run time, but it was good to be out. The surf report for Sunday was that, while there were waves, the spring break traffic was unbearable and not worth the effort of traveling to the island to surf. So, I didn't even attempt a surf session after my run. I decided to see what Monday would bring. I believed that I could use some fitness release time, leave work a few minutes early and have an afternoon session. And, that is exactly what I did!

By Monday afternoon, the waves looked nice. On the G-townsurf.com website, I had seen surfers out all day. So, I ran home, loaded the board and headed down. I'm so glad I did. I've been having sinus issues all week, but I think the salt water helped clear them. The waves were difficult for me to read; although others were making it look easy. I still had a blast. I caught several waves, including one fabulous wave that allowed me to ride suspended in air for what seemed like minutes. Several times I was able to relax and stand up straight. I still need work on making sure that I'm not hunched over. I also still need work on popping up faster. I feel like I take way too long. Let's face it! I just need a lot of work on many things. But, I'm willing to keep at it. I don't live close enough to the ocean to surf every day so I have to realize that only surfing one or two days a week will make it a little more difficult for me to become an "expert" or even a "pretty good" surfer very fast. I watched the movie "Riding Giants" recently, and I was in awe had how smoothly those people surfed. I have to just continue my practice. I believe one of these days, I just might have someone tell me that I looked "pretty good" out in the waves.