As I look back on the past week, my mind races with a multitude of thoughts. Where did the time go? How does one full week seem like just a day? How come I'm so battered and still unable to say I surfed bigger waves? And, why am I so worn out even though I spent most of time just surfing the re-forms or whitewater waves?
First of all, Santa Teresa, Costa Rica was probably one of the most primitive places I've ever traveled. I am excited and feeling adventurous about the visit. The town is basically just one dirt road filled with potholes that seems to go on for miles, but, in reality, is probably only about five miles long, if that. The ride from the airport (consisting of a small lean-to on dirt) in Tambor to Santa Teresa took about 50 minutes and offered a bumpy, lush view of the countryside and its people. Hotel Casa Cecilia was a wonderful base of operations for this trip. This exclusive B & B offered great breakfasts and wonderful views, not to mention great waves only a short walk from my bedroom door. As I mentioned last week, I was lulled to sleep by the sound of the waves every night.
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Although it is hard to tell in this
photo, waves were overhead every
day I was there. |
My first struggle with the waves came on my first day. I had to figure out a way to the outside, which I did rather easily that first day. The second day seemed more difficult, but by day three, I had found, with the help of another surfer from Argentina, a rip current near some rocks to ease the paddle-out. Like the rip current near the jetty in Galveston, this rip current scooted me out as if I was riding an escalator. I loved being on the outside; not because I was anxious to surf the waves that were overhead every day I was there, but because it gave me a close up vantage point to watch the experienced local surfers sail across the wave tops on their short boards. Originally I was excited about using the 8' swallowtail board, but after a couple of days, I decided I need to revert back to a 9' board like the one I use at home. The rental had a 9' for me to use, but it was a little more narrow and flatter than Roxanne. I opted to use it though since I felt that I definitely needed the length. It was a great board for me, and I was able to play/surf on it for the rest of the week. I use the term "surf" loosely. I never quite got the nerve or felt like I had the skills to catch the waves on the outside. They were always head high, so I just opted to ride the reforms all week. I hope some day to return their and actually surf the big waves...at least, the waves I thought seemed so big. (The local surfers didn't think the waves were really all that big, but I sure did.) One day, we went to a beach called Hermosa, but even there, the waves were big on the outside. I, again, opted for the quick and fun whitewater waves. I talked to Don, the innkeeper, about my disappointment with chickening out and my desire to some day surf those waves, and he urged me to keep trying. I got bit by what I think were sand fleas and bruised by the board soaring at me through the rough current, but I definitely plan to keep trying no matter what.
