Friday, February 26, 2010

Winter Surfing Sucks

Wetsuits keep you warm when the water is cold, but they sure are cumbersome, not to mention, difficult to get out of when they are wet. They imply winter because they exist. I've been wearing a 5-4 since November, and I'm definitely ready to revert back to a 3-2 or a springsuit. I've been hearing how great the waves can be if you are in the water just as a norther goes through. I haven't been there at the right time though. I'm either surfing just before it comes through or just after it starts to calm down. I only got to surf one day last weekend, and I didnt' get to surf today (Friday). Last Sunday's surf was odd. I wasn't mentally in the game, and my new pop-up prevented me from getting a good ride. However, I think in the long run that my new pop-up will pay off. One mishap with Brian's board, though, left me badly bruised. He let it go to tell me something just as a wave pushed it into me. He felt bad about it, but not as bad as I felt when it pounded me in the kidney. The purple bruise covers part of my lower back and feels sore, but I know it will heal.

I should have listened to my heart last week and stayed out of the water. I think another kind of workout would have been better for me. I debated whether to go down today or not. Waves were rough most of the morning, but when the north wind came through, the waves were good...or so I heard. In the end, though, I'm glad I didn't go. I had to work later than usual, and I had errands to run. I wish I had some great philosophy to share about knowing in one's heart when timing is off, but I don't. However, I guess "to thine ownself be true" works. I need to always remember to listen to myself.

SUNDAY (2/28) update -- No surf today! The south winds didn't kick up enough surf. So, I rode my bike instead. It was a great ride.