Friday, July 10, 2009

on our own?


Robin and I thought we might try to surf on our own today. We decided a few days ago that we might have graduated from lessons with Brian. When my cellphone rang last night, though, imagine my surprise when I heard Brian's voice on the other end. He was calling to find out if we were coming down today. We hadn't contacted him for lessons like we had in the past. "Yeah, Karen, are you dudes coming down tomorrow?" he asked. I answered that we were planning to be there at about 1:30. He said, "Cool, I'll see you dudes then." At first, I was puzzled. But, then, I thought perhaps Robin had arranged the lessons. She had been surfing on her own in Galveston on Wednesday. (She texted me at work to let me know how great the waves were, a rather cruel text since I was sitting in front of a computer attempting to write a story about a state designation for some online education classes.) She had seen Brian that day while surfing. He helped her buy a cover for her board. Today, when she met me at my house, I told her about Brian's call. She had no idea why he had called. When we got to our place on the beach, Brian waved and said he wanted to surf with us. He wasn't trying to give us lessons, he was just out there to catch waves with us. It was alot of fun and, even though he yelled at me a few times for something I was doing wrong, I enjoyed his company. He says we're his favorite dudes and calls us Barbie 1 and Barbie 2 because of our blonde hair. He makes us laugh. He's not charging us, just surfing with us and giving us helpful hints. He can ride any wave, no matter how small. It's good to have a competent, experienced surfer to surf with and to watch. The two Barbies definitely appreciate it.

Friday, July 3, 2009

board rash, freshly shaved legs and cycling

Ouch! My legs hurt. For the first time since I started surfing I have a nasty board rash. Although it could have come from me swimming out, sitting up, rotating my direction before getting in trim, I think now it's because I shaved my legs this morning before I went surfing. I usually don't shave right before I go out, but I did this morning for some bizarre reason. Ouch! The waves were flat and Brian tried several times to reach me and/or Robin, but we never got the messages or heard the calls. We were determined to go surfing no matter what. So, we took our boards down even if it meant we would be just floating around on the water. We were glad for the practice. I was particularly glad because I got to practice swimming out and sitting up and then trying to quickly rotate when a wave is coming in. This last part is particularly hard for me. I can't get turned fast enough and often end up being knocked off my board by the wave 'cause I'm not in trim. Brian came out, but really just offered a few tips and waited for his private lesson clients to show up. Robin and I have decided to not take as many lessons from now on and just keep practicing. We think that is what we need...practice and, maybe, a few more waves.

I'm hoping the board rash doesn't hinder my cycling. I plan to ride a long ride tomorrow and I definitely don't need the added problems of sore legs from board rash. (Oh, and the Tour de France starts this weekend!) Viva le Tour

Friday, June 26, 2009

Ode to a Surfing Blog

My favorite magazine, Oxford American, publishes a special summer issue every year inviting writers to submit their Best of the South stories for publication. The pieces are witty, charming and usually titled "Ode to a ..." (fill in the blank: this year's issue had such titles as "Ode to a Soda Fountain" and "Ode to Screaming." I decided to write my own. I've titled it:

Ode to a Surfing Blog

Words and waves. Waves by words crashing into the computer screen, each word meaning something more than just its original intent. Soaring, sailing words give action to the surf, the rip-tide, the cross current. Riding a curl brings the words back full circle to the origin of the wave ... the idea ... back to when it was just water washing away the sand, lapping up against the shore where kids play in waist-deep water with bright-colored floaties around each arm while being watched by nervous mothers nearby discussing their sons' behaviors in school and listening to seagulls cry, beg for pieces of pb&j sandwiches that could be compared to words in a blog that may or may have meaning to the sunglassed reader who is sitting on the striped Banana Tropic, yellow and orange beach towel. Words, waves remain important to the surfing reader and writer who shares the intensity of loading a bright, yellow and purple surfboard on top of her car, driving to the beach, unloading the board to place it in the wave's ending and swimming, stroke by stroke, out to where waves begin so that, later, she can, stroke by stroke, pull words together to express the exhilaration of riding the wave into the shore where it will start again.