Fog, Surfers and a Run-in with the Jetty

I've already mentioned how sporadic surfing has been in G-town this winter. Either it was flat or the waves came at a time I couldn't make it down; so my surfing has been minimal. This past Friday, I was dying to get out. Of course, the weather didn't cooperate. While the sun eventually made an appearance on the mainland, Galveston, especially on the Seawall, remained foggy all day. I began looking at the G-town.com webcam early in the day. It was so foggy, that it was nearly impossible to see the waves. But, by the first-hand accounts, the waves were waist-high, with an occasional chest-high set. They weren't pretty little north wind waves, but rather the mushy, crazy south wind type. However, I was willing to try just about anything.

I made it to the island about 3 p.m., as did hoards of other mainlanders who had just got off work. Although I noticed all the other surfers driving up when I arrived, I was focused on a group of men walking along the beach in yellow all-weather gear. Two oil tankers had collided just days earlier causing a huge release of oil and the men I saw was the HazMat team walking the beach to see the effects of the oil release. I noticed tar balls, but the 43rd street jetty and at least a few of the jetties to the east and the west had been spared the major damage. It has sounded as if the majority of the spill was heading further south. Nevertheless, the coast guard had assigned a HazMat team to walk the length of the beach to see the damage and by 3 p.m., they were at 43rd street. It was a little eerie seeing them there, but I still put on my 3-2 wetsuit and got ready to go in. It would be cold in the water, but I opted not to wear my booties.

It's never good to see a HazMat team at your break.

Dude B. had some business to take care  of, so he wasn't going to be surfing that day.I unloaded and headed down to the east side of the jetty. I paddled out with great difficulty. The current was strong and the waves were coming in fast and hard. The sets were erratic so planning the paddle-out was difficult. I made it to the outside only to find about 12 surfers already waiting for the next wave. I couldn't see them from the seawall because of the fog, so I had no idea how many were out. I watched for a few minutes and decided that I would give the west side of the jetty a shot. If I could get out to the middle between the 43rd and 45th Street Jetty, I might be able to catch a few without the crowds. I made it out there and if I had been a better surfer, I would have caught several. However, I struggled with timing. I caught one close to shore. When I made it to the beach, I walked down to the 43rd street jetty and was about to paddle out, when I decided that going out on the west side would be easier. And, it was at first. But I hadn't adequately analyzed the situation. I didn't look far enough down the jetty. I walked in, eventually jumped on the board and paddled out. However, when I got to the end of the jetty, I got caught up in what I can best describe as a whirlpool. This, of course, was why NO ONE was taking the west side riptide out. I got pushed into the rocky, barnacle-covered jetty. In order to protect the board, I used my feet to push away. I was in a whirlpool because wave after wave was coming in. A lady standing on the jetty was getting concerned about me, but I told her I was fine. When I finally got a break in the waves, I got out of the vicious cycle and made it back to the outside.

My feet were stinging. I decided I better go to the beach and check out my injuries. When I could finally lift my feet out of the water, I could see my left foot was covered in blood. Both feet hurt. I made it to shore to assess my injuries. When I got out of the beach, all I could see was blood. Just then, the hazmat team saw me. Since they are volunteers and two of them were doctors at UTMB, they were concerned. They had some gauze and one of them grabbed my foot and set it on his knee and applied pressure. The cuts were just topical, but the blood was everywhere. Dude B. arrived back at the beach about this time and let me use his first aid kit. The cuts were not deep, but I had several of them. I decided to call it a day. I'm really bummed by the fact I didn't get to surf much, but I'm glad my injuries weren't worse. My run and ride the next day were a little more difficult because of the cuts, but I still managed to get through both activities.

Saturday brought a north wind and beautiful waves to the coast. All I could do was watch. I had too much to do on the mainland. Bummer! I really wanted to go surfing, but I could not. Keeping my fingers crossed for next week.

A Cold Front and Waves Once Again

I have not been surfing in Galveston since late November. If it weren't for my trip to Costa Rica in January, I would have been out of the water for more than three months. Fortunately, today, a cold front moved across the coast. Typically, these cold fronts move across the coast mid-week, during the middle of a work day. I can never be in the right place at the right time for surfing…until today.

Surfers from throughout
the area were glad when
waves finally arrived.

Weather forecasters predicted that the next cold front would pass through sometime this morning. Of course, all predictions are unpredictable. I wasn't quite sure when it would pass. At around 8:45 a.m., I received a text from the "surf dude" in G-town saying that the west wind was making the waves too messy to surf. However, when I looked at the webcam at about 9:15 a.m., I saw several surfers out and the waves looked clean. I called the Brian and told him I was coming down. He said he just realized that the winds had shifted so I probably needed to get down there fairly quick before the north wind blew out the waves.

I loaded Roxanne and headed to the 43rd Street jetty. I pulled on my 5-4 wetsuit (I'll be so glad when I can surf without wetsuits) and booties, split my fingernail (ouch!!) and paddled out. At least 10 surfers were already out. I paddled for several waves, but either misjudged their power or their speed. However, eventually I caught a few. I couldn't wait to paddle out again. After about an hour at 43rd, surf dude and another surf buddy showed up and wanted to go to 36th. I wasn't quite ready to leave, but decided that I wanted to surf with them. So, I loaded up and headed down seven blocks. No one was out at 36th and the wind was picking up so I realized I better hurry and paddle out.

I caught the best wave of the day the minute and I turned back to the shore. Unfortunately, because of the booties and thick wetsuit, I hadn't realized that my leash had wrapped around both of my ankles. I managed to save it and surf a little before jumping off to untangle myself. I only caught two other waves after that, and missed a whole bunch. My friends caught several, but I didn't have as good an experience at 36th that I had at 43rd. My timing was way off at both places, but I think I would have eventually been able to recover it had I stayed at 43rd. It didn't matter really, though, because I was so glad to be back out in the water. I needed that time in the saltwater. It just felt good! With Daylight Savings Time in full swing, I can now go down after work and surf an hour or so. I hope it gets warmer though. That 5-4 wetsuit is just no fun putting on or taking off. Wishing for warm water and warm air temps soon!

Balance, balance, balance

I have been whining during the past six or seven posts about how the waves always come during the middle of the week when I can't surf. I am thinking that I might need to find a beach to travel to again real soon. Until then, all I can do is read the surf reports, watch the webcams and wish for better waves. I can also practice. I have read about the proper form and follow numerous surfing sites on social media so that I can constantly see photos of the world-class surfers catching the big waves. I also continue to cross-train by running and cycling. I've got several half marathons coming up in the next few months. I briefly considered running another full marathon last weekend, but decided against it. I digress. The cycling and the running keep my cardio strong, which is always a good thing, especially for paddling out and setting up for waves.

My pop-up always could use a little help, so I've been practicing on my living room floor. I lie prone and then jump up as if I'm about to catch a big wave.  I've also

Me on a balance ball at the gym.
It's the closest thing I've had to
surfing since returning from
Costa Rica in January.

been practicing my balance on the balance ball at gym. The hardest part of that workout is actually getting on the ball without falling. I try to maneuver and mimic surfing. It definitely requires being close to the wall…having something to lean on for support. Hmmm…finding support? How often we all need support for all the things we do. I'm fortunate that I have it most of the time from those who love me. I feel sorry for those who don't have it.

I was hoping to get out in the water this past weekend. Friday (3/7) was flat so I pinned my hopes on Sunday. A few waves kicked up on Saturday afternoon, but they were too weak to surf. They hadn't built much strength by Sunday morning; however, after visiting some of the webcams, I noticed a few of the diehard G-town surfers went out and now I regret not going out to give it a try. The waves were incredibly weak and the water is very cold, but I still wish I had ventured out. This is the beginning of spring break for area colleges and even I will get this Friday off. I have a few surfing buddies coming to town, and I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the weather and the waves will be good on Friday, even if it means pulling out my 5-4 wetsuit for the 50-something degree water. I'm ready for spring!