Small AND difficult waves

Just because the waves are small doesn't mean they're easier to catch; at least, not for me. The waves were small on Thursday and Friday, but they were also unpredictable and closed out quickly. Thursday evening was fun, and rather exciting. Brian suggested that we paddle to the east side of the jetty to see if waves were any better. While sitting on the board waiting for the waves, I notice some of the fish swimming around (the water was a little clearer than usual because of a front). Of course, it wasn't long before I noticed a rather large fish, which I'm quite certain was a shark. I didn't panic. I knew that the water was a little too rough for me to lift my feet or I would have definitely fallen into the water, so I just sat still. While sharks have good eyesight (they can see in color), because of the placement of the eyes an object has to be directly in front of them. I believe if I turn the nose of the board toward them, they won't see me at all. I also know better than to wear bright toenail polish or rings on my toes. Definitely a "no-no" since the sun reflecting off the the polish or other shiny objects causes the shark to notice a person. That night, I had neither the polish or the ring, so I just turned the nose and watched him swim away. (I've heard that on Sunday -- although this is dated for Saturday I'm only just now finishing my write-up Tuesday, 8/31 -- a shark was caught at the end of the 43rd Street Pier.)

Friday (8/28) waves weren't much better; however, I was glad there was something to play around in. I hit the beach and fount myself eventually moving to the 39th Street Pier because of crowds that got much bigger as the afternoon progressed. But, even at 39th, I dealt with several younger, better and more aggressive surfers. I still had fun. I'm still not sure how to describe what it feels like to catch a wave and ride it in. It's euphoric in a way I could never have imagined. It's like a small miracle. I especially love the way it feels when I first catch a wave and the board seems to be floating on air.

By Sunday, the waves were small, but better formed. It was incredible. I made it to the beach by 7 a.m. and surfed with Brian for the first hour-and-a-half. As the morning progressed, the waves got a little bigger. I caught waves until close to noon, with just a few breaks. I took photos of a surfer named Sven who was taking an advanced lesson. I still need work on catching the action at just the right moment, but I did manage to improve my photography just a bit. With the bicycle ride on Saturday, all in all it was a fantastic weekend, and one that I look forward to repeating.

Socrates once said that "Happiness is unrepentant pleasure." If that is true, then I can honestly say that I experience happiness quite often!

Waves are back

Finally, after a couple of weeks of doldrums the waves are back. I had a few small rideable waves last Sunday. They were fun. I sure was glad to see them since it had been flat. It flattened out again during the week, but, today, they were back again. Because of a southwest wind today, though, not only were there waves, but there was quite a bit of "muck." Seaweed, dirt and sand was everywhere. While the water had been almost glassy during the flat spells, today it was the opposite. Visibility under the water was extremely limited, and I felt like I was covered in dirt when I got out of the water. Add salt on top of that dirt to understand how completely grimy I felt.

I usually save Saturdays for cycling, but my surf guru/dude, Brian, asked me a while ago if I could help him out tomorrow. He has a large group (I think 12) who want to take lessons. He needed a helper or two. So, my surf buddy Robin and I plan to help him out. He will have two of his instructors to each take four students. Robin will take photos, and I'm sure I'll shoot a few myself.

I had a special treat today when an old friend came down to watch us surf. Heidi has been surfing for more than 30 years. She couldn't get in the water today, but she stood/sat on the pier and took photos of me and watched. I'm hoping she'll get to come out tomorrow and, possibly, join us in the water. I'd love to see her surf. I'm certain she'll be good at it!

No surfing, but lots of cycling!

No waves! The west/southwest winds have really flattened my favorite surfing spots. It's been almost two weeks since I had a decent surf night, and it doesn't look like it will be that much better anytime soon. Although, a developing storm system in the eastern Gulf might bring in some waves during the next couple of days. Until then though, I'll enjoy my other sport: Cycling. I started cycling seriously about 18 years ago. I say seriously, not because I was training to race, but because that was the first time I went out with a serious cycling group and rode approximately 40 miles. The distance seemed long back then, but now, on most Saturdays, I ride at least 60 miles. (It sounds like a much longer distance than it actually is when you consider that it can be ridden in under four hours.) Cycling is a big part of my life. I'd ride everywhere if I could do it safely and in a timely manner. That's not always the case; at least, not on the roads around here. Our roads have alot of traffic, and the drivers of the cars are often in a hurry. I have ridden my bike on a couple of occasions to work. I enjoyed the ride, but I didn't feel entirely safe. I know people, though, who ride to work every day or, at least, almost every day. They take the same route I would, so I guess I shouldn't use safety as an excuse. I probably should just resolve to ride to work more often. I have showers waiting for me there, so I can't even use my "sweat" as an excuse.

Lately, I've been participating in the Tuesday night paperclip rides. I hadn't ridden that ride for awhile, and it wasn't until I started riding it again recently that I realized how much I missed them. I need to keep it up. Not only does it keep me in shape, but it also strengthens my spirit!