I finally had my surf lesson. Brian (aka surfer dude) was a cool 60-year-old surfer who has surfed around the world. He gave me and my friend a 30-minute talk about the waves, sets, currents and possible animal encounters before saying he was ready for us to hit the waves. The Gulf was cool (not as cool as the Pacific), which was just one reason why he had suggested that we wear a rash guard. However, it was much warmer than last week. As usual, the most tiring part of the afternoon is trying to get the board from the car down to the water and then fighting the waves to get out into waist-deep water (the currents seemed even harder to fight than when I was in Nicaragua). At waist-deep, Brian was suggesting that we get on the board. He coached us on how to get on the board, our body positioning and, of course, the pop-up. Although I almost got up on the first try, it wasn't until the second or third try that I did the pop up correctly and positioned myself good enough to ride the wave all the way in. I was victorious!!! Okay, so I fell off every time after that; I had at least one good ride, which even garnered me praise from Brian.
I hope I can take another lesson next week. I definitely need some more wave time!
No comments:
Post a Comment