Here's one description of what it's like to catch a wave.
I'm sitting on my board, looking for a wave. I see one coming so I get down into position. I start to paddle when it gets to be a couple of boards away, increasing my stroke as the wave gets closer. I paddle hard and the wave gets closer. Just as it lifts the back of the board, I pop up -- right foot forward. It's that second that is magic. It's as if I'm floating on air. That moment is almost impossible to describe, and is one of the greatest feelings ever experienced. I don't think that magic airborne feeling is something that can't be replicated in any other sport. It's nice to ride the wave for a few seconds after that, but the initial feeling of catching the wave remains the most incredible adventure ever. I recommend it to everyone!
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