Rough waters...part two

Once again, the south winds have really done a number on the waves. It is really blowing, which makes waves, but also causes them to be choppy and borderline unmanageable. I was going to try to make it down one night during the week, but it never quite worked out; especially, since I'm training for another half marathon, which is cutting into whatever free time I've had. I seem to be extremely busy these days, and trying to squeeze in workouts for cycling, running and surfing seems to be almost impossible. However, I've been doing a pretty good job. I'm worn out and my house is a mess, but I'm in pretty decent condition.

I went out Sunday (5/22 -- note to self: this post is dated 5/21, but I started it and then added/changed it on Sunday) early, and was pleasantly surprised with a visit from Bryan with a "y." Bryan is an outstanding surfer, who happens also to be an archaeologist. He's been on a job in California for a little while and, the last I heard, he would be there for awhile. However, he came strolling up on his bike with his board and I was pleasantly surprised. I had the pleasure of surfing with Bryan. The extremely rough waters made it difficult getting out even with a rip current. Several young guys were out with their short boards. They had no trouble duck diving and getting right back out, but I was having trouble getting past one certain point where waves were breaking. Bryan told me to grab his leash so he could pull me past and, then, I could paddle out. He got me out, but it wasn't long before the current pulled me on the inside. I decided to stay there and practice. I caught several little whitewater waves on the inside, which was thrilling as always. I just wish I could get a little stronger and stay on the outside; at least as long as those teens on the short boards. I NEED MORE PRACTICE!

Rough waters...they are always around, whether it is when I'm surfing or just trying to live. I feel discouraged often about being caught on the inside, but I don't always have someone like Bryan to pull me to the outside. So, I get trapped. TRAPPED!

I must practice my paddling some more.