I didn't get to surf on Friday. There were no waves, and Brian didn't like bringing a SUP , which is okay for me since I was pretty tired anyway. I took the afternoon off, since I had ridden my bike to work that day and knew that I had a 5-mile run and 50+-mile ride on Saturday. I needed the rest.
Today (Sunday), however, I did take my 9' Softop "Iris" and make a go out of the small, but clean waves that were breaking on the inside. The waves were perfect for me to practice turning. I believe, though, that I prefer a much stronger and bigger wave. I can't believe I'm saying that, but I'm learning that the stronger the wave (not necessarily bigger), the easier it is to get up. I had a number of good rides today, but I also had a wipe out, which is embarrassing when the wave is only a half-a-foot big. Nevertheless, I had fun!
Fun...it seems I'm always looking for ways to have fun. And, I do most times. I get my feelings hurt; that's for sure. But, I strive not to hurt others. I hope I'm successful, but I'm not sure I always am. And, I know that, probably, others don't try to hurt me. Lately, I've been remembering a quote that was found in the diary of Anne Frank. The quote is probably overused, but I still can't help but feel good when I think of it. I realize it is quite Pollyanna of me, but it helps me... "In spite of everything, I still think people are good at heart." For no reason, this quote popped into my head today while surfing. Actually, while out in the water, especially before the beach fills up with people and I'm out either alone or with only one or two other people, I have time to reflect on life. Today, once the beach started filling up with vacationers as well as the local beach-goers, I looked around as I surfed, and I know that what Anne Frank said is true. People are good.
No comments:
Post a Comment