I had approximately six miles of hiking to do before I would be back at my starting point. It was a long, strenuous hike. |
This morning, I did a quick little 28-mile bike ride before loading up my 9' Softop "Iris" for a quick surf session. I didn't have a lot of time, but I wanted to get in at least an hour or an hour-and-a-half of surfing before my "fun" time was over. I made it down to the 43rd street jetty about 11:30. It was getting crowded and, by the time I left, was packed with people. The wind was blowing WSW, which meant that the best waves to surf were on the west side of the jetty. Generally this time of year, we surf the east side of the jetty, but not today. The waves looked decent from the seawall view, but once I was down on the beach, I could see what some of the issues might be. They looked as though they might "play out" quickly. And, once I took the rip out, I found that to be true. It was easy to be pushed away from the jetty, and the first time that happened, I caught a short ride right away. After that, though, I had to wait for waves. They would either break at another spot close to me, or fizzle out. I got pushed in by the current several times and made a rather weak attempt at getting back out without using the rip current. I quickly realized that was an error. It took way too much energy. A couple of young guys on short boards were catching some waves closer to the jetty, which is amazing since they were on such short boards (5'-footers). Although, I must add that even they missed waves because of timing. I started just staying a little closer to the jetty myself and, from there, was able to catch a few waves. I had a blast, and was even able to maneuver around the guys when they suddenly appeared in front of me. I fell a couple of times because I locked my knees and bent forward, but I think that is only because I had been off the board for more than a week. It usually takes me a couple of rides before I feel comfortable again.
Toward the end of my surf session, I had the pleasure of meeting and surfing with two new surf instructors hired by Dude B to help at his camp. Both of them were polite young people who I know will be inspirational to those who they teach. It sure is special to meet such nice people!!
And, although my playcation is over, I plan to keep on playing...at home.
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