I was a little intimidated at first, but quickly overcame my fears by watching the other surfers in the water. They all made it look so easy. Phil had an 8' and a 9' board. I opted for the 9' because I wanted to keep using the same size board as Roxanne, which is the board I use regularly these days. The differences, though, we're that it was Softop and, therefore, a little wider and thicker than mine. Since the waves were formed by a beach break, it was a little tricky getting out. I counted sets, but Phil warned that the waves had minds of their own and would form and come into shore as they wanted and not in any prescribed manner. I tried to follow his lead, but sometimes got caught on the inside. He gave me some tips for getting out, one of them being to keep heading into the wave and to not stop paddling if I saw a rather large wave heading my way. Of course, at least three times, I got scolded for doing just that...stopping and occasionally turning when a wave headed my way. I paddled a lot, but then again, paddling has never been an issue for me. I caught three rather large waves with Phil beside me, but I also missed some I should have been able to catch.
I participated in my run today (Sunday) and didn't really have an opportunity to surf again. I had a fun run that included a few miles on a paved path actually on the beach. However, with the sun beating down on the sand, running on the path was really warm...warm for California. I was hoping to finish in 1:55, but finished in 2:02 instead. Oh well, there's always next time to set the record. Who can complain about a running and, SURFING in California? I certainly can't!
No comments:
Post a Comment