I was forced to wear a 5-4 wetsuit. Brrr... |
I was in the water by 10:30 a.m. on Sunday. Several surfers were already out, and I stood on the seawall a few minutes to see how I would go out. The waves were crazy. They looked big, but soft. I was just trying to figure out how to get out past the rough waves to the outside. And, that would be my biggest dilemma for the day. I took the rip current out the first couple of times and had no trouble, but after about 45 minutes, the waves got even rougher. The rip current even got a little rough. The tide and the wind kept pushing me into the jetty, which I hate because the barnacles and rocks cut my hands and feet. I was tired before I made it all the way out. I decided to just stay on the inside to catch re-forms or white water, which included some fun waves. However, I am a little disappointed that I couldn't make it out, and I'm angry with myself for giving up. I should have kept trying to get to the outside, forcing myself to swim past/through the waves. On hindsight, I'm worried that I gave up too soon. Although, the air temp was in the low 70s, the water rep was still quite cold. Because of that, I was forced to wear my 5-4 wetsuit, which also seems to make it more difficult to paddle because it constricts my movement a little. Can't wait until it gets warm enough to either wear a 3-2 or not even need a wetsuit. I'm definitely ready for spring/summer.
Surf reports for this weekend show another weekend of waves, with 5+ foot waves forecasted. Not sure if the report will hold, but I think there will be some sort of wave action. Right now it is FLAT, but a slight wind shift is all that is needed for the waves to be generated. I'll just have to wait and see how big the waves get.
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