Back at it

With a weather forecast promising  a sunny afternoon after several rainy weeks, I couldn't resist loading up my board and heading to the 43rd Street Jetty. Early morning reports were that waves were about knee high and nice. But, just as I crossed the Causeway and entered Galveston, I got a call from a surfing friend saying it wasn't worth the drive down. The wind had started to blow and was causing the surf to be a mess. I mentioned that it was too late...that I was already on the island and, since I had my board, I was going surfing anyway. I was glad I did. Yes, in fact, the waves were kind of a mess and the current was rough. After taking the rip out, it didn't take long for me or anyone else to be pushed down the beach away from where the stronger waves were breaking. I definitely did a lot of paddling today. I caught my first wave within the first 15 minutes and, from then on, had a blast despite the current and the constant paddling.

From the seawall, waves look
smaller than they actually were.

Although there were only two of us out for the first 30 minutes or so that I got in the water, a steady stream of surfers paddled out for the next two hours while I was surfing. Because the wind was blowing out of the east and pushing us west, the waves were breaking to the left and right, which was good for me as a goofy-footer who is usually surfing the wrong direction on the wave no matter how hard I try to go the other way. For the most part, it seems Galveston is perfect for regular footers, but, on occasion, the messy waves break both directions and goofy-footers get to go right. Stayed out for a little over two hours, and, all in all, had a great time. I'm tired tonight, though. I guess I'm just not used to the paddling since.

I'm back to working a 9-40 schedule,which should give me a few free Friday afternoons to get out. And, with the longer days, I should make it down for a couple of after-work evening sessions as well. I'm determined to make the most of my surfing experiences this summer. I still need to work on looking out instead of down. However, even if I don't, I'm sure I'll still have fun and that's what surfing is all about -- having FUN!

Finally, some waves!

Waves have been inconsistent lately! Just when I think there might be something to surf, I look on the Galveston webcam and it's flat. Or, I look on the webcam just as I'm preparing to head to work, to a meeting, to a wedding...to a fill-in-the-blank, and find the waves are wonderful, but I can't make it to Galveston. It's been flat for the past few weekends, with waves only appearing mid-week. I was off the entire week of Christmas, but it wasn't until late Thursday that the waves started picking up again. The surf dude Brian called on Friday and said that the waves were messy and the current was bad, but I was so desperate to get in the waves again that I decided I would take my chances. In fact, I had been keeping up with several surf forecasting sites and the prediction for Friday afternoon was clean surf after yet another norther blew through. The current would still be strong, but the surf would be a little more consistent.

Pretty, clean sets were forming by
mid-day on Friday!

I made it to the island and into the waves close to noon. Because of the number of surfers already at 43rd waiting for the wind shift to occur, I listened to Brian's suggestion and surfed at 39th . Things were still a little rough, but I could see waves forming and filling in nicely. The current was strong, and I knew that I would have to paddle hard to make it to the outside. That was an understatement. I was able to time the waves, count the sets and make it out past the jetty, but I couldn't make it out far enough where the waves were building. Every time I almost made it out, I would get swept back in by a wave. I would then see a well-formed wave and think that I was far enough, turn and surf it. Usually, once a person gets past the jetty it gets a little easier, but not Friday. I made it quite a ways past the end of the jetty, but still couldn't make it all the way out where some of the waves were forming. Don't get me wrong, I had a few fabulous rides. I didn't even have to paddle much to get into the waves. The ones I caught were not real big, but very strong and fast. I had a ball, and I sure was glad to be back out.

For the first time this year, I had to wear my 5-4mm wetsuit. Water temp is approximately 57 degrees, which is quite chilly. Although I had my booties with me, I opted not to wear them. Fortunately, my feet didn't really start getting numb until a couple hours later, which was my cue to get out of the water. Of course, by the time I got out, the front had swept past the coast and the air temps were about 55 degrees. And, getting out of a wetsuit, especially that 5-4 which is so darn hard to peel off, is COLD. Brrrr...fortunately I keep my sweats real close and have managed to disrobe and re-clothe myself quite fast. By Saturday, the waves had disappeared and on Sunday, they weren't much better. However, this evening they look like they are building again as another front moves in. I might be able to squeeze in a little surf time tomorrow morning. Here's hoping!!

Just ask Zoltar

Zoltar, do I need
another board?

Last week, I wrote that I needed signs; some little something to help me make the right decision. And, I do. This week, I decided to research boards. I know I don't really need a new board. I already own four of them, although I'm ready to sell at least one of them. However, I've decided to focus on my 9' board. I mentioned before that one of the Chica Brava instructors recommended that I pick one size board and stick with it. I opted for my first board, which is the 9' Softop. After my surf session last week, the surf dude told me that I had outgrown my board with my skill level. Was this a sign that I needed a new board? He felt like the Softop was holding me back. I'm not sure that's really true. I don't feel like I've outgrown it. I still have so much to learn. I thought I turned it rather easily last week. But, nevertheless, I went window shopping for a 9' epoxy/fiberglass board. I found a couple of them at the Soundwaves on Bay Area. They were ranging in price from $700 to $800. However, they did have a nice McTavish that was 9'1" and cost only $499, which is definitely not a bad price. I wish it was only 9'. I even made a trip into Houston to the Montrose Soundwaves to check out their boards. I was impressed with their inventory. They had several 9' Robert August boards that looked fantastic, but again, they were all over $800. I thought I could possibly find one online cheaper, and earlier in the week, did some research on craigslist, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for there either. Today, after surfing, I even went to Surf Specialties and found out that the owner had a used 9'1" Senator board for sale for $575. It sure was a nice board. But again, I really think I just want a 9'. Hmmm...for now, though, I'll probably just keep looking. Unless, I get a "sign" suggesting that I found the right board.

Waves were too messy on Friday for me to go down and surf. It looked like a mess on the webcam. Strong winds created choppy waves and a strong current. I had heard that surfers and swimmers were being swept down the beach with the current. While early forecasts predicted that the wind would lighten up by Sunday, it didn't. Today was just as windy as Friday. However, it had shifted slightly and the winds were more out of the south. And, although someone told me that would make the waves a little better, I didn't really see it. When I made my way into the water, I immediately realized that this day surfing wouldn't be easy. The only way to make it to the outside was taking the rip because of the current. And even that took some heavy duty paddling. I managed to make it out several times. However, I also managed to either get pushed back in by the current or to get pummeled by waves and washed back in several times. On occasion, though, I caught a wave. They required fast pop ups. In fact, I missed one all together simply because I was too slow getting up. Because the waves were so strong, it pushed me in before I even had time to realize I had missed it. I had three or four good rides, but one in particular made the whole day worthwhile. I seemed to be flying. I wished I had practiced my turns/movements more, but I really can't complain. I turned it a little, and I was moving fast. Some of the others out in the water were really good with the choppy waves. But even they missed a few. I even had the pleasure of watching and taking photos of a young couple who was taking their second lesson from surf Dude B. They were refreshing to watch, and seemed like genuinely good and kind 20-somethings, which is always nice to see. Hope they come back. Surfing is a blast!