The Beauty of California Surf...

...is that they always have waves! Well, maybe they don't always have waves, but at least they always have waves when I visit. I also follow a couple of surfers on Twitter (people I don't really know, but people who started following me) who post about their great surfing sessions. And from what I've seen, they definitely have some sort of waves most of the time. I headed to southern California this weekend for a quick trip. Now, that I've started running, I like to find interesting places to run. This weekend, Orange County hosted their OC Marathon, with a half marathon option available to us newbie runners. I chose this run for a number of silly reasons. First, I ran the Huntington beach half in February and found out that if I signed up for the OC and Long Beach also, I would receive a medal shaped like a surfboard. I know it's silly, but I like the bling. Secondly, I think southern California is beautiful; a little chilly, but beautiful. Finally, if I travel to California, I can surf! 

I contacted the school I used when I was out there in February and asked if the instructor I had then would be available and he was. I really liked Phil 'cause he's a little older and really wants his students to understand the waves, which is very similar to the "dude" I learned from, and still surf with, in Galveston. I received my instructions about where to meet him through a text message, so, on Saturday morning, I headed down to the beach entrance on Huntington Beach to meet Phil.  The first thing we did was examine the waves. After a few moments and a thorough discussion with Phil, he decided we needed to drive down the beach a little way. There were waves where we were,but he thought the waves on the outside were closing out a little too fast for me and, on top of  that, it was quite crowded with local surfers. We drove down the beach and after another thorough investigation and explanation by Phil, we found the perfect location. He explained that I would have to paddle quickly to get past the rough stuff to the outside. I said "No problem." Of course, the first time I tried, it was a problem. I got pounded on the inside. On my second try, I paddled quickly enough to push to the outside. Once out, it was wonderful. With Phil by my side, I was able to decide which waves to attempt to catch. Of course, it helps when he's right beside me and is telling me. There were a couple of waves I would have attempted to catch if he hadn't been there to wisely guide me. However, even with him there, I managed to blow it most of the time. I caught two or three...kind of. By that I mean, that I had a couple of waves that didn't pummel me, but I waited a little late to get up, so I missed the drop. My drops were small in comparison to his, 'cause I delayed my pop-up. However, the two or so waves I caught were wonderful and fast. Phil assessed me and basically said the same thing that my "dude" in Galveston said. I need to stop thinking so much about and surf. It needs to become second-nature. I definitely want it. I think it's a fair assessment.  

On another note, my run today was fun, but not a PR for m. I probably needed to run more miles while training. Also, I probably needed more repeats on the Kemah Bridge. Today's course was very hilly for a flatlander like me, but the scenery was beautiful. I finished the 13.11 miles in 2:02 rather than  1:55.  But, I've already signed up for the Long Beach Half in October to see if I can better my time. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

Just ask Zoltar

Zoltar, do I need
another board?

Last week, I wrote that I needed signs; some little something to help me make the right decision. And, I do. This week, I decided to research boards. I know I don't really need a new board. I already own four of them, although I'm ready to sell at least one of them. However, I've decided to focus on my 9' board. I mentioned before that one of the Chica Brava instructors recommended that I pick one size board and stick with it. I opted for my first board, which is the 9' Softop. After my surf session last week, the surf dude told me that I had outgrown my board with my skill level. Was this a sign that I needed a new board? He felt like the Softop was holding me back. I'm not sure that's really true. I don't feel like I've outgrown it. I still have so much to learn. I thought I turned it rather easily last week. But, nevertheless, I went window shopping for a 9' epoxy/fiberglass board. I found a couple of them at the Soundwaves on Bay Area. They were ranging in price from $700 to $800. However, they did have a nice McTavish that was 9'1" and cost only $499, which is definitely not a bad price. I wish it was only 9'. I even made a trip into Houston to the Montrose Soundwaves to check out their boards. I was impressed with their inventory. They had several 9' Robert August boards that looked fantastic, but again, they were all over $800. I thought I could possibly find one online cheaper, and earlier in the week, did some research on craigslist, but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for there either. Today, after surfing, I even went to Surf Specialties and found out that the owner had a used 9'1" Senator board for sale for $575. It sure was a nice board. But again, I really think I just want a 9'. Hmmm...for now, though, I'll probably just keep looking. Unless, I get a "sign" suggesting that I found the right board.

Waves were too messy on Friday for me to go down and surf. It looked like a mess on the webcam. Strong winds created choppy waves and a strong current. I had heard that surfers and swimmers were being swept down the beach with the current. While early forecasts predicted that the wind would lighten up by Sunday, it didn't. Today was just as windy as Friday. However, it had shifted slightly and the winds were more out of the south. And, although someone told me that would make the waves a little better, I didn't really see it. When I made my way into the water, I immediately realized that this day surfing wouldn't be easy. The only way to make it to the outside was taking the rip because of the current. And even that took some heavy duty paddling. I managed to make it out several times. However, I also managed to either get pushed back in by the current or to get pummeled by waves and washed back in several times. On occasion, though, I caught a wave. They required fast pop ups. In fact, I missed one all together simply because I was too slow getting up. Because the waves were so strong, it pushed me in before I even had time to realize I had missed it. I had three or four good rides, but one in particular made the whole day worthwhile. I seemed to be flying. I wished I had practiced my turns/movements more, but I really can't complain. I turned it a little, and I was moving fast. Some of the others out in the water were really good with the choppy waves. But even they missed a few. I even had the pleasure of watching and taking photos of a young couple who was taking their second lesson from surf Dude B. They were refreshing to watch, and seemed like genuinely good and kind 20-somethings, which is always nice to see. Hope they come back. Surfing is a blast!

Caution...Drop Off

It's always good when there's a sign! Whether it's a flag (green for calm conditions; yellow for normal; red for rough conditions; blue for excessive jellyfish, etc.) that says when the waves are rough, a sign that indicates exactly what jetty is nearby or a caution sign on the seawall that warns that the edge of the wall is near, signs often let all of us know how to make decisions about what we are going to do. I think I've written about signs before...in fact, maybe I've even written about the sign I'm attaching to this post. I don't remember. I searched and didn't see it, but that doesn't mean that I haven't overlooked it. Life can get so complicated sometimes. I want to be more carefree, but it just seems that I often over-think things. I need to learn to turn my brains/thoughts off on occasion. If I did that, then, possibly, I could just relax and trust my instincts, instead of making sure I always do the "right" thing. Doing the "right" thing, may not always be the "best" action. Hmmmm...still thinking this all through. Not thinking might even make me a better surfer.

An important Seawall sign

Initial first-hand Friday surf reports didn't sound good. However, a Tweet (yes, a surf report I follow on Twitter), and an Internet post indicated that things weren't so bad. And, when I looked at the webcam, I agreed. I knew it was windy, but I also knew I really wanted to surf. So, despite the initial reports, I headed down right after I finished work. I took my 9' Softop, continuing my goal and the suggestions of several surfers to stick with one size until I master the sport of surfing. I was worried about the "reported" wind; although, the wind definitely was not a problem on the mainland. Oddly enough, when I made it to Galveston, the wind had died significantly there also. The waves were small and a little choppy, but definitely surf-able. In fact, quite a few surfers were out -- more than usual on a Friday afternoon. Approximately eight or nine were on the west side of the jetty and only one or two were on the east side. Neither side looked better for waves than the other from the Seawall. I made the decision that I was going to surf the east side, and when my surfing buddy made it there, he agreed. All in all, I'm so glad I went to surf. I had read the surf reports and because of an approaching cold front, I knew the waves would be gone by midnight for a couple of days, including Sunday...my other regular surf day. I had some great rides Friday and even managed to turn BOTH directions to ride the wave. I had some wipeouts too, especially twice when I got caught on the inside of the wave and couldn't save it. I had one ride of which I'm particularly proud. I caught a wave as did a guy on the left of me. I was on the wave first, and he came my direction down the wave. I refused to get off. He got nervous and bailed, which caused his long board to knock my board. However, I didn't get nervous or lose my balance. I maneuvered my way around it. I felt like I had won "King of the Wave." Not sure it was technically my wave. My gut says it was, but, then again, the waves don't really offer any signs saying who owns it. I definitely could use more signs.