Sunday, January 13, 2013

Judging

This January seems colder than some of the past. I may just be imagining it, but it seems not only colder but also damper, which in turn, makes it seem even colder. I was excited to see several surfers out at the jetty on the webcam early Friday morning, but even more excited to see people surfing when I got off of work. I made my way down to 36th early in the afternoon on Friday. By the time I got there, the sun was hidden by a thick layer of clouds and the breeze had picked up just enough to make the temps seem cooler than they actually were. I was sure glad I had my 5/4 wetsuit yet again. Some of the surfers had on booties, but I opted not to wear mine. I knew my feet would be cold, but I was hoping that I would be able to last two hours before I lost feeling. I believe my feet had feeling for about an hour and 45 minutes before I had to get out of the water. In fact, during my last pop-up, I couldn't feel the bottom of my feet at all. I decided that it was time to get out of the water. I had only a three or four rides, and, of those, only a couple that were halfway decent. I pearled numerous times -- more times than usual. I just had a hard time judging the waves Friday. I would see them coming, get in position and paddle, but I either paddled too hard or not hard enough, which would cause me to get caught in the break of wave and then to pearl. It's strange; I go for a long time without pearling, but then I have a day like Friday when I pearl three or four times. It makes me realize that I just haven't surfed long enough. Several of the people I surf with have been surfing 40 years or more, and they also live close enough to the beach that they are able to surf just about every day there are waves. I have too far to drive, a full-time job and several other activities that steal my free time, and I don't see that changing anytime soon, which means that I will just have to be satisfied with my slow learning curve. No matter what, I'm having fun! And, I'll just have to realize that in order for me to get better fast, I will have to either stop some of my other hobbies, or realize that it might be a few years before I can do everything right when it comes to surfing.

I definitely watch the beach for waves!
I've had a really disappointing week when it comes to a judgement. I'm in a situation with a close friend where my judgment skills are being tested. When someone doesn't act or do something I think they should, I need to try not to judge them. I don't have to agree with them, but I do have to accept them if I want to keep them in my life. I'm not sure how my situation will be resolved, but I'm hoping the outcomes are good. I really need to think about all of this, and learn to find acceptance.

Sunday is my other usual surf day. However, since I had signed up for the Houston Aramco Half Marathon back in June, I knew that on one Sunday in January I would be running instead of surfing. Today was the day. Seems like it was a good day not to be surfing since, not only was the weather bad, but the north winds blew through and flattened shore. Unfortunately, that means I ran in bad weather. And, it was bad! I managed to run and make it through. I even completed it in a decent time. I wanted to run a little faster, but I'm glad that I finished in under two hours. I'll have to look for another run to set my record. It'll take a little time to select the right run. I'll have to use my best judgment.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

A Pleasant Surprise

February 2013
I have avoided buying surfing magazines! I say "avoided" because a.) I don't need more magazines around my house for me to get addicted to and b.) I couldn't imagine that the surfing magazines, which are most dedicated to twenty-something guys, could be particularly interesting or well-written. I've subscribed to an online magazine that comes out a few times a year and is dedicated to women surfers, but I've left the mainstream surfing magazines alone. Occasionally, I would skim through them when I was in a book store, mostly looking at the photos and reading the captions just to see where the unusual waves were located. However, a couple of months ago, I saw an online special for Surfing magazine that would allow me to receive and read Surfing on my iPad. From the editor's note to the features, the writing kept me interested and excited about surfing. I was very pleasantly surprised by the writing quality and engaged in each of the stories. In fact, the very first line of the editor's note in the February 2013 issue made me realize how much I was going to enjoy reading it: "Surfing is not always easy or automatic."I love that line, and I knew that I would enjoy reading the rest of the magazine.

Surfing didn't happen for me this weekend, which is why it's a good thing I have my magazine. On Friday, the current and the winds were way too strong. So strong, that the surf was blown out and un-surfable. Although I heard that there were small, but decent waves on Saturday afternoon, I was unable to make it down. (On a side note, a friend who made it out to surf said that it was extremely cold in the water and required not only a 5-4 wetsuit, but also a vest underneath as well as booties, gloves and a wool cap. Hmmm...I'm not too sad I didn't make it down 'cause I hate being that cold.) And, besides, a cold front had swept through town and not only was it cold, it was wet, which makes for miserable conditions for any sport. I just couldn't imagine getting into the water no matter what thickness of wetsuit I was wearing.  Sunday morning wasn't much better, and, by the time that it cleared on Sunday, the waves were almost completely gone, and what was left definitely wasn't surfable. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that some waves might build for a possible surf session either Monday or Tuesday afternoon. By Wednesday, storms will be back. I can always keep my fingers crossed for next weekend and hope for warmer and sunnier weather  as well as a few waves.  Here's hoping!

Sunday, December 30, 2012

Finally, some waves!

Waves have been inconsistent lately! Just when I think there might be something to surf, I look on the Galveston webcam and it's flat. Or, I look on the webcam just as I'm preparing to head to work, to a meeting, to a wedding...to a fill-in-the-blank, and find the waves are wonderful, but I can't make it to Galveston. It's been flat for the past few weekends, with waves only appearing mid-week. I was off the entire week of Christmas, but it wasn't until late Thursday that the waves started picking up again. The surf dude Brian called on Friday and said that the waves were messy and the current was bad, but I was so desperate to get in the waves again that I decided I would take my chances. In fact, I had been keeping up with several surf forecasting sites and the prediction for Friday afternoon was clean surf after yet another norther blew through. The current would still be strong, but the surf would be a little more consistent.

Pretty, clean sets were forming by
mid-day on Friday!
I made it to the island and into the waves close to noon. Because of the number of surfers already at 43rd waiting for the wind shift to occur, I listened to Brian's suggestion and surfed at 39th . Things were still a little rough, but I could see waves forming and filling in nicely. The current was strong, and I knew that I would have to paddle hard to make it to the outside. That was an understatement. I was able to time the waves, count the sets and make it out past the jetty, but I couldn't make it out far enough where the waves were building. Every time I almost made it out, I would get swept back in by a wave. I would then see a well-formed wave and think that I was far enough, turn and surf it. Usually, once a person gets past the jetty it gets a little easier, but not Friday. I made it quite a ways past the end of the jetty, but still couldn't make it all the way out where some of the waves were forming. Don't get me wrong, I had a few fabulous rides. I didn't even have to paddle much to get into the waves. The ones I caught were not real big, but very strong and fast. I had a ball, and I sure was glad to be back out.

For the first time this year, I had to wear my 5-4mm wetsuit. Water temp is approximately 57 degrees, which is quite chilly. Although I had my booties with me, I opted not to wear them. Fortunately, my feet didn't really start getting numb until a couple hours later, which was my cue to get out of the water. Of course, by the time I got out, the front had swept past the coast and the air temps were about 55 degrees. And, getting out of a wetsuit, especially that 5-4 which is so darn hard to peel off, is COLD. Brrrr...fortunately I keep my sweats real close and have managed to disrobe and re-clothe myself quite fast. By Saturday, the waves had disappeared and on Sunday, they weren't much better. However, this evening they look like they are building again as another front moves in. I might be able to squeeze in a little surf time tomorrow morning. Here's hoping!!